Sicily 2013

Catania 21 August

 

First impressions of Sicily are that the people are easy going and friendly. They do not rush about in their cars and whenever we want to cross a road, a driver stops. Can't say that for many places outside the UK. The Hotel Principe is in the heart of Catania, the 2nd city after Palermo but not the most attractive. However, I did purchase some fixing plates for a wall mirror in a backstreet hardware shop after failures in supply back home in B&Q and Homebase. 



 



It rained briefly on our 2nd morning before we took a look round the fish market. Apologies to vegetarians, and to the fish of course, but the seafood in Sicilian restaurants is tasty and fresh. Spada and gamberetto were regularly on our plates.

Ortigia 22 August

 

The city of Syracuse contains a staggering diversity of monuments from Ancient Greek and Ancient Roman times, as well as throughout the various Christian periods. Three bridges link Syracuse to the small island town of Ortigia with its narrow, winding lanes.The Duomo is one of the town's most celebrated sights. Once it was the Greek Temple of Athena, with a giant gold statue of the goddess on its roof. The massive Doric columns of the temple are still visible; rather wonky after earthquake damage. The wall above the columns along Via Minerva, with battlements, is Norman in origin, while the fancy Baroque facade was a replacement after the 1693 earthquake. Look at that blue sky! The gelateria were doing good business.

Syracuse 22 August

 

The great theatre of Syracuse was built by colonists from Corinth under the tyrant Hiero 1st and hewn from the local stone. To the Ancient Greeks, the word 'tyrant' meant leader. The 3rd photo below shows the quarry that supplied the stone. The column centre right was one of many that held the roof up (click on the photo for a better view). Needless to say, it must have been a catastrophe for those living above and those working below when the quarry 'roof' finally caved in.

Piazza Armerina

the Roman Villa del Casale

23 August

It is thought that the "Villa del Casale" was built between 330 and 360 AD. The identity of its owner remains a subject of debate but he must have been a wealthy Roman to have built this wonderful place in the heart of the Sicilian countryside.

 

There are 3500 square metres of fantastic mosaics on the villa's floors, and some surviving wall paintings. Many of the structure's walls are still standing. The mosaics  are the finest mosaics in situ anywhere in the Roman world.

The villa is built on a series of terraces. The first is the monumental entrance, which opens into a courtyard, on to which faces the elaborate baths complex. The oval palaestra gives access to an impressive octagonal frigidarium which leads to the tepidarium. Next comes the impressive main peristyle with its monumental fountain in the centre, and the rooms opening off it. The long Corridor of the Great Hunting Scene contains one of the finest and deservedly most famous mosaic pavements, depicting the capture of wild animals in Africa, with the master and his assistants directing the activities in the centre. We looked at the different scenes for ages, noting the fine detail and accuracy in the detail of clothing, animals and equipment. Most of the small private rooms in this part of the complex contain mosaic floors depicting more peaceful and domestic activities. Particularly well known is the group of young women wearing costumes remarkably similar to modern bikinis, engaged in sporting activities. So beach volleyball is not such a modern idea...

Arancini!

 

Very tasty, one a day is enough though!

Agrigento and

The Valley of the Temples

From the Villa del Casale we drove towards Agrigento on the southern coast and to the Valley of the Temples, one of Sicily’s most famous historical attractions.

This World Heritage Site consists of eight temples (and various other remains) built between about 510 BC and 430 BC. The temples are not in a valley but high on a ridge overlooking what would have been the Ancient Greek city of Akrasgas which had a population of tens of thousands. Many temples here wait to be unearthed, there might be more Ancient Greek temples in Sicily than can be found in modern day Greece!

The Hotel Della Valle was allegedly 4 star. We had a nice big room but they charged for towels at the swimming pool and you had to buy a hat before going for a swim. Miserable lot!

Selinunte and its Greek Temples.

Medieval Erice and its Norman castle

24 August

Another beautifully hot day for the drive from Agrigento to Selinunte on the south coast.The site of this Ancient Greek city bears the ruins of an acropolis and many temples, though much of what is standing today was reconstructed from pieces found in the vicinity. The city was founded in the seventh century BC  and effectively destroyed in 409 BC. The glory of ancient Selinus lasted for about two centuries, when it was one of the most progressive Greek cities in Sicily. Apart from the tourists, the place plays host to a mass of lizards and hibernating white snails.

Erice is an unforgettable medieval hill town close to the port city of Trapani on the island's western coast. The town is surrounded by defensive  walls, crowned by an impressive castle. Erice dominates the surrounding area from its mountainous height of approximately 800 metres above sea level. The drive up there was certainly along a long and winding road but the views were worth the ride. Erice was probably founded by the Elymians, a native Sicilian people who also built the nearby town and temple of Segesta. After the Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans, the town was later ruled by the Arab, then the Norman rulers of Sicily. Its historical centre is largely intact, clean and well-kept. The streets are handsomely paved with a characteristic pattern of differently-sized shiny stones. Only about 300 people now live in the  centre, though there are other settlements around the slopes below.

Palermo and Monreale 25 August

From our comfortable base at the Excelsior Hilton we explored the old city of Palermo, taking in the Cathedral, the Quattro Canti (one is below) the mosaics of Santa Maria Dell'Ammiraglio and the truly wonderful Palatine Chapel in the Palazzo Dei Normanni.

In the afternoon we drove up to Monreale which straddles a slope of Mount Caputo about eight kilometres south of Palermo's cathedral. Set at about three hundred metres above sea level, the town overlooks the "Conca d'Oro," as the valley beyond Palermo is known. The cathedral and its cloister represent the largest concentration of Norman, Arab and Byzantine art in one place. True, Palermo's cathedral is larger, but Monreale's exists in something far closer to its original twelfth-century state. Once again, we were impressed by the beauty of the mosaics. 

Cefalu 26 August

Apart from the beach, Cefalù's other great  attraction is the  Duomo, a handsome and imposing two-towered Norman cathedral, very similar to the design of the church at Monreale. Begun in 1131, this mighty church dominates the rooftops of the centro storico. Once again we were impressed by the mosaics created by the Byzantine artists. A large Christ  on a gold background dominates the apse, above the Madonna, archangels and Apostles. The mosaics of Palermo, Monreale and Cefalue are some of Sicily's greatest sights.

Mount Etna

27 August

Enough of temples and mosaics, let's go up a mountain, Mount Etna to be precise. Wear warm clothes they said, 'it might be cold up there' but you only realise how important that advice is when you step out of the 4WD. Coach to about 1900m then take the ski lift up to about 2900m. I don't know how strong the wind was but it felt like at least 120kph. There must be some calm sunny days up there but our visit was not on one of them!



Black dust everywhere, and even covering the snow.

That's me with a Yeti.

Taormina

27 August
There are operatic and jazz concerts throughout the summer in the Greco-Roman theatre. some think it is sacrilegious but it brings the people in and helps maintain the place. We finished our trip with six days at the Hotel Hilton Giardini Naxos. We would not recommend it. They charge for beach beds and umbrellas, for the indoor pool and for use of the business centre. We paid them to send postcards and none arrived. Hilton? Not impressed at all.