Kilimanjaro Climb21 - 31 January 2016

Day 1, 21 January.  I cannot say that I am at all impressed by Kenyan Airways. The plane was delayed nearly three hours at Heathrow because a wing flap was not working. This meant that we missed our connection to Kilimanjaro Airport and lost half a day  getting stuck in traffic and hanging around in Nairobi.

I asked for a tea at Nairobi Airport and the result caused much merriment. Undrinkable!

Day 2. 22 January. The Ameg Lodge and grounds were very attractive and the food was good. Our room (I shared with George) was the worst of the bunch and we had no hot water.

The chalets (above) were great. I know because I went and had a hot shower in one (Thanks Gilly!)

Our room (below). 

Below: About to start for the National Park with 'Kili' in the background.

A two hour drive from the Ameg through beautiful upland farming country brought us to the Londorosi Gate where masses of porters were getting their kit weighed. These marvellous, hard working and endlessly cheerful people (nearly all men but including some women) then set up an outdoor lunch for us before the first walk began. 

Below: The delights of the portable loo being explained before it has to be used for real.

Our afternoon walk through the rain forest was very enjoyable, though we did not see much wildlife, save for the black and white colobos and the blue monkeys. We were encouraged by our guide Anton to walk slowly and pace ourselves, 'pole, pole' in Swahili - hurrying is frowned upon and 'pole, pole' worked well for me. On arrival at the camp we were  surprised and delighted by the joyful, talented and energetic renditions of songs from the wonderful porters and camp workers who had rushed on ahead to set up the camp. This would be the pattern each day.

This little fellow was found near the ground.

'poa kichizi kama ndizi' became a well used catch phrase for when we were asked how we felt: 'Cool like a banana.'

 Below: Meru in the background at 4565m and 70km west of Kilimanjaro

24 January. Below: A welcome at Shira Camp after 11 hours trekking over terrain that was very steep at times. Height now 3868m. Boniface leads the singing and dancing.

Waiter brothers Amadeus and Livingstone were always on hand to offer hot drinks, though I did not always appreciate their 5:00a.m. wake up calls!

 Below: Paul and Boniface. Paul was a great help to me on Summit night.

Below: The 'long drop'. "When you gotta go, you gotta go" and Kilimanjaro is no place for the faint hearted. Great views through the slats in the toilet walls - not that you would want to stay in there for long - and don't forget to take your wet wipes!

Day 5. 25 January. Onwards and upwards to Barranco Camp via the Lava Tower and then through the lower alpine valley. Lunch at the Lava Tower was around 4630m to help test our ability to acclimatise. We then  dropped down to sleep at Barranco Camp at just over 3900m. 

The Giant Groundsel Senecio trees. They are only found above 3000m

It was a long afternoon trek and a tiring day. As darkness fell, so did light rain and snow.

Day 6. 26 January. We awoke in sunlight to face the near vertical Barranco Wall. It turned out to be exhilarating climbing the  volcanic rock face, with the reward of lunch at the top. We had to stop now and again to let the fast moving porters go on past us with all their equipment, e.g. our mess tent and chairs, our tents, the toilets, the cooking equipment, our luggage and sleeping bags!

We peaked at 4100m and then dropped down to 3900m to sleep at Karanga Camp.

Below: Another warm welcome from our support team.

A rare chance to have a wash with some soap and a bowl of warm water.

Below: Collared ravens discussing who should go to the loo first.

Day 7. 27 January. Another lovely sunny day. We pass Barafu Camp and reach Kosovo Camp via a very steep climb. Head guide Julius has negotiated our higher camp site (about 4700m) so that we have less to do on Summit night. Thank you Julius - top man!

Below: Ready for the off.

Break time:

Camp welcome in the clouds.

Mawenzi peeping through the clouds. The three peaks of the Kilimanjaro volcano are Kibo, where we are heading, Mawenzi and Shira, which we passed on the way up.

Below: Snow on the tents.

Summit night was not what I expected. We left our camp around midnight for what I thought was going to be a tedious slog. It was very hard but not tedious because there was a full moon and the sky was clear, enabling us to see the starry sky, the mountains and valleys, the town of Moshi and the lines of lights below us as people made their way up the mountain. The light snow had frozen and so it was cunchy underfoot. We were wrapped up and snug - the temperature was only a few degrees below zero. For the first time, the altitude affected me a little bit - I had not had the headaches and nausea that some of my colleagues had been suffering from. The effect on me was that I occasionally felt light headed and lost my balance and I fell over at one point, though fortunately without damaging myself. Paul allowed infrequent and only brief stops and though we missed the sunrise, we made good time to Stella Point.

Below: With Paul and Moses (Summit Porter).

With Boniface and Pension.

Stella Point is at the crater rim. The crater is huge and the clear air gave us marvellous views of not only the crater but also miles and miles of Tanzania's dramatic terrain.

We passed the glaciers on the way to the summit. Paul told me that it was not long ago that the glaciers were so much bigger and that they reached the path we were standing on.

 The summit at last!

Thank you Tanzanian and Kenyan staff for helping me to get there. Thank you UK colleagues for being so supportive and encouraging: Ian, Avtar, Lucy, Kirsten, Emma, Harry, Maddy, Linda, Gilly, Sarah, Victoria, Sonja, George, Lee and Greg. Every one of the UK team made it to the top.

Below: No, this is not me after a Friday night out in Newcastle city centre, just a bit of fun with the guides. 

Mzungu Kichaa!

The journey down was arduous and I was tired but not quite as bad as above! It descent was very tough on my knees and I slept really well that night. Below: On the way down.

Day 9. 29 January, Millenium Camp. We were woken at 5:00a.m. and walked downhill for 5 hours in intermittent sunshine and through beautiful forest to the Mweka Gate. The welcome from our Tanzanian hosts was wonderful. There were garlands, a glass of fizz, singing and dancing. This was followed by a very tasty buffet and a Kilimanjaro beer. Two gentlemen took off our boots and washed them - a somewhat humbling experience.

The support team all got their well-deserved tips and plaudits. We then drove back to the Ameg where, after we complained, they finally got a hot water supply for us.

 I need a shave!

I had a few beers that night but I think that I earned them.