Alas, we did not fly with the wonderfully named Yeti Airlines but Tara (below) was comfortable enough.
The flight to Lukla seemed to be taking much longer than expected and then it dawned - we were going round in circles because Lukla was closed because of the thick cloud. We landed at a place called Ramechhap that had an intact airstrip, though the village had been badly damaged by the April 2015 earthquake. We waited in Ramechhap all afternoon until it was decided that we would stay there for the night. A kind and well informed local found us accommodation at the Hotel Alina - very basic but hospitable.
Below: The earthquake damaged airfield control tower.
Two years on and some people are still living in tents.
21 March: Up at 0440hrs in the hope of flying to Lukla. Carried our bags down to the airstrip in the dark. Clear sky and we were off!
Lukla airstrip: You land uphill and take off downhill, there's nowhere like it!
Nepalese pancake for breakfast and then we were finally off on the trek, starting at 2800m.
We arrived at Monjo mid-afternoon for an overnight stop. Only gained a few metres in altitude but it was up and down all the way. Each time you cross a river you descend and then ascend steeply.
Below, Yaks: The unsung heroes carrying our bags. I now feel guilty about having a Yak steak on our return from Gorak Shep to Namche.
The main heroes are our Sherpa guides: leader Passang, Chiri (above), Chuan, Nores, Sonam and Yaka. They are enormously hard working, cheerful and helpful. Wonderful men.
Pass on the left when you encounter either a Stupa or prayers carved into the rocks and then painted white:
22 March: More descents and ascents to and from bridges as we trek in beautiful weather up to Namche Bazar and a nett gain of 600m over the course of the day.
Egg and chips for lunch, an afternoon stroll among the steep paved streets and then the luxury of a hot chocolate and WiFi in a cafe.
23 March: 0800hrs and out of the door for an immediate and steep climb out of Namche (3440m) to the Everest View Hotel (3880m). A quick pace and hard going. We did a three hour trek in 1hr 50min! We got our first view of Everest (for the Nepalese it is Chomolugma - Goddess Mother of the World) Nuptse and Lhotse.
24 March: We say goodbye to Namche and our hotel with its hot showers and will go largely unwashed and smelly for a while - despite the use of wet wipes, liberal amounts of talc and after shave. The weather continues to be warm and sunny each morning, with cloud sweeping in each afternoon. It is a hard climb up to Tengboche Monastery (3860m). Eagles circle overhead, wild goats graze on the highest slopes and we also spot a Himalayan Monal (member of the pheasant family) which is the National Bird of Nepal.
The Nepalese porters carry huge loads ranging from eggs and cans of beer to pieces of furniture. Some wear little more than a shirt, trousers and a pair of trainers and none appear to carry any food or water. They move up and down the mountains at considerable speed and are truly remarkable people.
Tengboche Monastery:
Saturday 25 March: It is a week since we left Heathrow and we wake to find that overnight snow has made the paths somewhat treacherous. We descend from 3860m to Deboche at 3820m then go through Pangboche at 3930m and up to Shomare for lunch at 4010m - yet another Dal Bhaat, one of the staple dishes of Nepal. Sunshine all the way to our next stop, which is Dingboche at 4410m.
Typical tea-house accommodation: Warm enough - didn't always need to use the sleeping bag.
It takes a while to boil but it is free energy. Anyone for a cuppa?
The man who looked after our yaks was called Yaka by the other guides. We never found out his real name.
When you get fed up with Dal Bhaat, there is usually tasty noodle soup on offer.
26 March: There is an acclimatisation climb up to 5100m but my legs pack up at 4950m and along with two others who are struggling, I come down. Dal Bhaat for lunch!
27 March: We climb for 45 minutes then walk through a wide, flat valley in bright sunshine and stop for lunch at Thokla (4620m). After lunch there is a very steep climb over the Thokla Pass to negotiate. At the top there are memorials to climbers who have perished on the mountains over the years. Here's one dedicated to the great Rob Hall, the New Zealand mountaineer who made his last radio call from near the summit of Everest on the evening on 11 May 1996. Crippled by frostbite, running out of oxygen and stranded without food, fluid or shelter, he is presumed to have died that night or the next day. The fact that he died whilst trying to save an exhausted client confirmed his status as the world's most respected leader of commercial Himalayan expeditions.
27 March: We climb for 45 minutes then walk through a wide, flat valley in bright sunshine and stop for lunch at Thokla (4620m). After lunch there is a very steep climb over the Thokla Pass to negotiate. At the top there are memorials to climbers who have perished on the mountains over the years. Here's one dedicated to the great Rob Hall, the New Zealand mountaineer who made his last radio call from near the summit of Everest on the evening on 11 May 1996. Crippled by frostbite, running out of oxygen and stranded without food, fluid or shelter, he is presumed to have died that night or the next day. The fact that he died whilst trying to save an exhausted client confirmed his status as the world's most respected leader of commercial Himalayan expeditions.
The afternoon remains sunny as we get into Loboche at 4928m. the legs are fine but I feel slightly light-headed.
28 March: Base Camp Day. Woke with a pain in my right foot and no energy. Ian (group leader) and Chris (doctor) persuaded me to get going and I went slowly but steadily at the back of the group. We traversed the difficult terrain of the Khumbu Glacier and though tired, I made it to Gorak Shep at 5140m for lunch. Chris declined to allow me to continue the last 200m in altitude to Base Camp. Disappointing but a sensible decision. I rested for a while then went for a stroll and climbed part way up Kala Patthar. The group made it to Base Camp and their photo had my United hat in it so a little of my DNA made it.
29 March: Gorak Shep down to Periche (4240) and then Pangboche (3930m). The afternoon rest has done me a power of good. One day of acclimatisation at Gorak Shep would have enabled me to get to EBC but now it is time to head home. It is a steady walk in the morning sunshine and going down over 1000m quite rapidly means that the negative effects of altitude soon diminish. As we descend into the Chola Khola Valley after lunch, we become enveloped in cloud. Chiri leads the way in the gloom. a good 15 mile trek.
When you've got to go, you gotta go!
30 March: Pangboche back to Namche Bazar and a shower! It is a long trek up to the Tengboche Monastery and then a 500m drop back down to cross the Chola Khola again at about 3250m. After that it is back up again to Kyangjuma at 3550m for a lunch of noodle soup. Dinner at Namche is a splendid affair (but not for the yak).
31 March: We have a nine hour trek to Lukla ahead of us. For various reasons, five people in the group each decide to blow 150 dollars on a ten minute helicopter ride to Lukla. Though I did not get to EBC I am going to walk out. We go a long way down to the river from Namche and then up again on the other side. The pattern continues throughout the morning until we stop at Phak Ding for a bowl of noodle soup. The place is run by a wonderful Sherpa who has climbed Everest three times. In the afternoon at least 200 mules pass us on their way to Namche; they look as if they are taking supplies for one of the early summit expeditions.
Saturday 1 April: The alarm goes off at 0500hrs and we make our way through the congested but somehow organised chaos of Lukla Airport and fly out at 0705hrs. Back to Kathmandu and a good clean up.
Passang, almost always smiling.
Great trip! Thanks to Ian, Chris, the Sherpa guides and all the group for your support and friendship.
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