Coast to Coast Walk
A lot has been written about Alfred Wainwright's 1973 Coast to Coast walk and this account is not intended to add to the guides - it is my recollection via a series of photographs of a great trip with some exceptional people. (Click on the photographs to enlarge them.)
Twelve of us and our expert guide John traveled under the auspices of HF holidays and I would happily recommend HF to those long distance walkers who do not want to be self-guided but would rather have the camaraderie of a group and the luxury of having meals and accommodation organised for them.
The Shepherd's Arms at Ennerdale Bridge. Very helpful staff and great food.
The first of the 'lakes' was Ennerdale Water on our 2nd consecutive cool day - 2018 was the hottest summer on record remember! Despite the cloud and the wet conditions underfoot, the walk was exhilarating.
Below: The view from Honister Pass after ascending from the remote Black Sail Youth Hostel alongside Loft Beck and then over Brandreth Summit.
Borrowdale
Our HF accommodation at Derwent Water. Very comfortable, though the dining room was a bit noisy. There was plenty to choose from the menus and the packed lunches were excellent.
Another rainy day heading towards Greenup Edge.
Our group of twelve comprised 2 Canadians, 2 Dutch, 2 Irish, one Australian, one from the USA and four English. We had lots to learn from each other and enjoyed hearing about domestic, social and political life in different parts of the world.
Eagle Crag and then the very boggy Easedale approach to Grasmere.
We did not take the St Sunday route from Grasmere to Patterdale - no views to be had on this cloudy day.
Clearer as we approached Patterdale and looked forward to re-hydration at the White Lion.
We have walked 49 miles and Day 6 dawns brightly for our 15 mile walk to Shap that will see us leave the dramatic vistas of Lake District behind. We ascended from Patterdale to Angle Tarn, over The Knott, along the Roman High Street, up to Kidsty Pike for marvellous views and then steeply down to Haweswater for a picnic lunch, a trek along the reservoir and onward through the River Lowther Valley. The constantly changing scenery meant that I hardly notice time passing.
Mum and calf at Rosgill
Day 7 was a long one - 19 miles. We walked for eight hours - seven of which were in the rain. In the late afternoon we arrived at the Jolly Farmer's in Kirby Stephen and received a very warm welcome from host Carol who directed us to the drying room. Carol and her team looked after us marvellously well and served excellent meals. I had been hoping to lose a bit of weight on the trip but failed to resist the temptations of the porridge, cooked breakfasts and three course evening meals. We stayed for three nights at the JF and on our arrival each evening we were served tea and scones - what luxury. I did not envy the Coast to Coasters sleeping in tents!
Over the M6 at Shap after our overnight stay at the Tebay Services Hotel. Not an inviting name but the hotel was yet another well chosen HF overnight stop, being comfortable, warm and serving tasty meals using locally sourced ingredients.
A limestone pavement - a natural phenomenon on Crosby Ravensworth Fell.
Lunch on Tarn Moor. You've guessed - it's raining.
Smardale Bridge for an afternoon drinks break.
Smardale Gill Viaduct
Signpost in Kirby Stephen giving miles and furlongs.
Having walked 83 miles to Kirby Stephen (add more if you include evening trips to pubs - in one of which our international team failed to win the quiz) we say hello to The Pennines and the summit of Nine Standards Rigg. During the afternoon rain at Ravenseat we took shelter in a barn and were served yet more tea and scones.
Our mini bus drivers were, without exception: cheerful, friendly, helpful and on time to take us to morning starting points and recover us at the end of the days when a walk did not finish at accommodation. Note the rain!
At the front door of the Jolly Farmer with an idea about what to do with retired walking boots.
En route from Keld to Reeth we passed through the Swinner Gill lead mining workings and buildings. The lead mines drew workers from far and wide in the C17th but the industry died out before the end of the C19th.
From the lovely village of Reeth we travelled through the delightful pasture lands of the Swale Valley. Honesty boxes were often to be found along the route - lovely touches from Cumbrian and Yorkshire farmers and residents to support walkers. The one below was not a roadside box but a table in the C12th church in Marske.
Beautiful Yorkshire and en route to Richmond with its narrow cobbled streets, impressive waterfalls, folly, market square, lovely gardens and imposing castle.
Below: Bolton on Swale Church where Henry Jenkins is buried. He died at the age of 169 (if you believe that then I'm the Queen of Sheba). We arrived at the church just as the late morning service finished and spent time talking to members of the congregation over cups of tea.
With one exception, our accommodation was very comfortable. In one place my room mate and I were billeted in a shoe box so small that I couldn't take a picture of the entirety of the enclosed cell-like structure. Our comments have been passed on to HF Holidays.
Despite the privations described above, the stay in the mightily impressive Richmond was very enjoyable.
On lowland near Danby Wiske, where we crossed the main London-Edinburgh railway line.
Dry and a little cool - good walking conditions as we proceeded up Beacon Hill and up to Carlton moor to join the Cleveland Way.
Our final accommodation was Larpool Hall in Whitby. The entertainment on the first evening was an excellent talk about Whitby from a chap who called himself Dr Crank. The 17 mile walk from Danby Wiske to Carlton Bank was clearly too much for two of our group, one of whom was nodding in her sleep whilst the snores of the other caused much amusement, though thanmkfully not enough to distract the good doctor.
Our room is top left with a superb view of the Esk valley. Four nights at Larpool Hall was most welcome and included the standard top notch HF hospitality.
Clay Bank Top en route to Blakey Ridge.
Great Fryup Dale seen from Glaisdale Rigg.
Beggar's Bridge in Glaisdale.
The River Esk at Glaisdale.
Stepping stones across the Esk in the lovely village of Egton.
Walking through beautiful Eskdale valley towards Grosmont.
On our arrival in Grosmont we decided to take the North Yorkshire Steam Railway back to Whitby. Thank you Richard for negotiating the group discount.
Views when walking from Whitby Station back up to Larpool Hall.
It is a rather steep climb out of Grosmont to sleights Moor.
Near Little Beck - a beautiful valley.
The north Sea and not far to go now, though the end is not in sight.
At last, Robin Hood's Bay.
Here's John, our guide, taking his deserved plaudits from a group of US and Australian trekkers that we had seen often over the course of the 192 mile walk.
some of the alleyways of Robin hood's Bay.
I am checking that I have the correct pebble from St Bees to lob into the North Sea. I think that's what I was doing!
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