Saturday, April 17, 2010

Scottish Highlands

We drive north from Inverness, across the Black Isle, past the beautiful Victorian buildings of Strathpeffer and stop at the dramatic Rogie Falls in the Torrachilty Forest. There is a car park and a short walk down through pines brings you to a suspension bridge over the Blackwater River. The water is cold and black with peat. From the bridge you get a great view of the river as it powers through the gorge. There is a ladder beside the river for the salmon to by-pass the falls on their way to spawn. some don't use the ladder and do it the hard way. You can take one of a number of trails and walk for as little or as long as you like up-river and through the forest.
We arrive in Ullapool to see a trawler being unloaded. The crew have been out for ten days. There's 20 tons of fish coming ashore, all packed in ice and by hand. We notice that when the supplies go on board for the next trip they include whiskey - for medicinal purposes no doubt. The crates are loaded onto a lorry by forklift. The lorry driver does not know where he will be taking the fish at this stage. The capatain of the trawler is on the telephone negotiating prices with various wholesalers. What a hard live these men lead.

On the east coat, we cross the Dornoch Firth with its basking seals, Loch Fleet through Golspie to the magnificent Dunrobin Castle, the most northerly of Scotland's great houses and the largest in the Highlands, with 189 rooms. You cannot visit all of them but a tour of the 'house' is fascinating. The castle resembles a French chateau, with its towering conical spires, it has been inhabited since the 1300s, and is the nacestral home of the Dukes of Sutherland. From the castle there are panoramic views of the sea. Immediately below are the gardens where we saw one of the best falconry displays ever. The falconer is very knowledgeable, professional and friendly. If you want an eagle owl to sit on your head, it can be arranged!







Near the head of the mysterious Loch Ness above the village of Dores.


No comments: