Monday, July 30, 2012

Old Cracow

We went for a walk around Kazimierz, where the Jewish culture thrived before WWII. That culture is coming to the fore once again  as part of a more multicultural area with cafes, bars, shops and a flea market included. Important synagogues such as the Kupa and the Isaak, sit close to some of old Cracow's 150 catholic churches, such as the huge Corpus Christi (below). The wooden pulpit is fishing boat shaped, complete with oars, nets and mermaids



A sadly derelict children's playground, unused except for the cat. Can you spot it?

 More baffling than the two gentlemen outside St Mary's Basilica. How does she do it?

Plenty of good quality street music about, but happily for us, the streets are not crowded.
 Refreshment...

Sunday, July 29, 2012

Birkenau

Very few buildings remain on the vast Birkenau site. The Nazis hastily destroyed the gas chambers and crematoria as the end of the war approached.

Extremely hot in summer, well below freezing in winter, with virtually no food, a few seconds a day to go to the 'toilet' (the holes in the centre of the block) if you were lucky, no washing or sanitation facilities and crammed three to a bunk, conditions would have been horrific.

The good news was that after our visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau, we drove through the beautiful Polish country side to Wadowice, the birthplace of Pope John Paul II. his former house is now a museum and is next to the church where he was christened. Heading back towards Cracow we drove into the hills to the fabulous monastery at Kalwaria Zebrzydowska.

 When the place gets busy they use  outdoor confessionals. Pictured are just a few of them!

Auschwitz (the Nazi name; Oswiecim in Polish)

Many words have been said and written already so I will add only a few more. Below is what the Nazis called the kitchen. They did not want prisoners to last very long, the aim was to work them to death so the 'food' was nothing more than occasional watery 'soup'.

 I was certainly upset at some of the things that we saw at the 'camp'. More often I was disgusted at the lengths to which the Nazis would go to make the prisoners suffer. for example, below are two posts. Victims would be pinioned by their arms and made to hang for hours just above the ground. Shoulders would become dislocated and when finally released from this torture, the victims would be expected to work; either that or be shot. You could be tortured for nothing more than looking at one of the guards. About 1.5 million people suffered here, mostly Jews, Poles, Russian POWs, gay people, the disabled. Some prisoners on outside work managed to smuggle messages to Polish resistance fighters. One set of messages included the names of the most brutal of the SS in the camp. Their names were then published in British and US newspapers, causing the cowards to be upset and providing the inmates with small but morale boosting satisfaction.
 A relatively minor number of the SS were brought to justice after the war. The gallows below were used to hang prisoners, usually in front of others to add to their terror. A small satisfaction for some was that after WWII the camp commandant was hanged here, just outside his residence. Having been inside the buildings and seen the rows of photographs of prisoners, the collections of hair, spectacles, toothbrushes, suitcases, false limbs, babies' shoes for example, I understand why the people at the Simon Wiesenthal Centre continue to hunt down the perpetrators of the appalling crimes of the Nazis and I wish them well in their efforts.
 Last stop on the tour is to enter a gas chamber.

Cracow, beautiful, inspiring and relaxing

Cracow, the former capital of Poland is a marvellous place to spend a few days. Below you have St Mary's Basilica in Rynek Glowny, europe's largest medieval market square. Every hour (24hrs a day) a bugler appears near the top of the tower and plays a warning to the four points of the compass. He then waves to the crowd who then wave back. Not sure what the crowd was like at 3:00a.m. though.

 The weather was great, as you can see. A bit warm for the horses perhaps but they are all well cared for and in beautiful condition.
 This is Wawel Cathedral, a short walk form Rynek Glowny. As in all the churches we visited in Cracow, the inside was awe inspiringly beautiful, including the ornate sarcophagi of Polish monarchs and national heroes. Our admiration for the Polish people grows as we hear how they finally gained independence in 1918 after a series of invasions and rule by Swedish, Prussian, Austrian empires. Then followed the dread of the Nazis and 45 years of Soviet repression.
 I would be very grateful if someone would tell me how this is done!
 Cracow is very relaxing, especially with a glass of Wyziec. Not bad in the back of a horse drawn carriage either!